Our understanding of vitamin C is far from enough.
Article source: Daisy evaluates WeChat WeChat official account
Original title: Why do you have so many aunts and grandmothers? !
Author: Daisy
As a versatile ingredient-D C, no matter whether it is a monopoly of cheap fighters or a lady’s ceiling, almost all D C series will be produced. Not only that, in addition to products that specialize in vitamin C, vitamin C will also be added to other functional skin care products.
Although vitamin C is widely used, babies actually don’t know enough about vitamin C. What’s the difference between various vitamin C derivatives? How to use dimension c more effectively? What are the taboos of using vitamin C? A Dai, this is a detailed way for the babies ~
# Walk into dimension C #
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# What is vitamin C?
Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, can be divided into two optical isomeric forms: levorotatory and dextrorotatory. Among them, the human body can handle dextrorotatory vitamin C, but babies may feel strange. Isn’t it "levorotatory vitamin C"? This is actually a beautiful misunderstanding ~
Vitamin C, which can be used by human body, is left-handed vitamin C in chemical structure. At the beginning, I accidentally translated the left-handed form into the left-handed, but now it’s hard to change it. Therefore, the effective vitamin C for human body should be "L-vitamin C", also known as "prototype vitamin C".
Although vitamin C is not one of the raw materials that make up an organism, nor can it provide us with energy for a full day, it is an indispensable nutrient for our body. Sadly, unlike other mammals, which can synthesize vitamin C by themselves, we as "higher animals" can’t.
Interestingly, our ancestors were able to make their own vitamins, but they gradually lost this ability in the long evolution. God, you don’t deserve to stay if it’s not a superpower. . . )
This is because we lack the enzyme (L- gulonolactone oxidase) to synthesize vitamin C in our bodies, so we can’t make vitamin C by ourselves. And if we don’t supplement vitamin C from the outside, we will easily get septicemia, and even "hang up" in serious cases. Fortunately, the content of vitamin C in vegetables and fruits is very high, and vitamin C can be absorbed through food supplement.
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The role of vitamin c
Vitamin C not only plays a vital role in maintaining the normal operation of the human body, but also has a quite amazing effect on the skin through further research! Most of the babies should know that the prototype vitamin C can reduce melanin production and restore the melanin that has already been produced, thus weakening skin pigmentation and achieving the purpose of whitening. But don’t underestimate it, it’s not the only advantage ~
Although vitamin C is not a special ingredient for sun protection, it can weaken the skin damage caused by sun exposure through the way of "saving the country by curves". For example, it can protect the skin from free radical damage when it is irradiated by ultraviolet rays. In addition, studies show that VC can inhibit lipid peroxidation and reduce skin problems such as redness caused by external stimuli ~
Not only that, the prototype vitamin C also has a great effect ~ As babies all know, one of the reasons for wrinkles is the loss of skin collagen. The prototype vitamin C can promote the synthesis of collagen, and make collagen more stable through hydroxylation, and make the epidermis stand up, thus better maintaining the skin’s "youthful state" ~
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What is vitamin C derivative?
In this way, the prototype dimension C can be called a "multi-functional component", but good things are never perfect, and its injuries are quite many. Because the prototype dimension C is particularly "proud", it is afraid of both water and high temperature. Simply put, it is easy to change color after hydrolysis and easy to decompose at high temperature. Not only that, but also the prototype vitamin C can maintain its structure stably in an acidic environment, and it will only "work" if it is transferred to the skin while maintaining its structure unchanged.
Because the transdermal performance of prototype vitamin C itself is very weak, only ultra-high concentration can work, and babies all know that the higher the concentration of acidic components, the easier it is to irritate the skin. This has led to a very headache. Many babies easily feel irritating when using prototype vitamin C, and feel bad when using it. However, the effect of low concentration of prototype dimension C is greatly reduced. Because it is so difficult to handle, it is not easy for major brands to "soothe" it, so many brothers and sisters of vitamin C, also known as vitamin C derivatives, were born.
In fact, in terms of efficacy, derivatives are generally not as good as prototype vitamin C, and most of vitamin C derivatives need to be converted into prototype vitamin C to be directly absorbed by the human body. However, the advantages of vitamin C derivatives lie in their stability, ease of use (the efficacy of some vitamin C derivatives can be comparable to that of the prototype vitamin C) and their gentleness to the skin, which can adapt to the skin condition of most people, so they have become the components that major brands are vying for ~
# Family of vitamin C derivatives #
The family of vitamin C derivatives can be described as diverse in structure and each has its own advantages. Today, A Dai will help the babies to sort out this family. Vitamin C derivatives can be divided into several generations according to the order of invention, but it is hard to say who is strong and who is weak. Its effect also depends on the concentration and formula design.
First generation vitamin c derivatives
The first generation of vitamin C derivatives mainly improved its stability and adaptability by hanging groups. Although it did not solve the problem of discoloration of vitamin C, it was at least slightly relieved and relatively less irritating.
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Magnesium/sodium ascorbate phosphate (MAP/SAP)
These two are the first generation of vitamin C derivatives, which can be described as a pair of twin sisters. They all have similar structures, that is, phosphate molecules are attached to the active hydroxyl groups of ascorbic acid.
The texture is white powder or crystal, and its stability is better than that of prototype vitamin C, which makes them easier to be added to different skin care formulations. Not only that, but also there is a great breakthrough in mildness. Both of them can play a role in neutral aqueous solution and have less irritation to the skin.
MAP molecular formula
In addition to their common advantages, through further research, it is found that SAP components can also alleviate the oxidation of squalene. Here, A Dai will review the role of squalene with the babies. Although it can resist oxidation, it will form oxides under the influence of ultraviolet rays, and squalene near sebaceous glands will block pores and pose a risk of acne. Therefore, it is necessary to do a good job of sun protection when using products containing this ingredient during the day.
Moreover, SAP also has a good performance on acne, so it can be said that it is the gospel of anti-oxidation of acne muscles when babies use it with products containing squalene!
SAP molecular formula
However, they are not without shortcomings. Although carbonate groups are added to improve the stability of vitamin C, it will increase the charge density, which will lead to the decrease of skin absorption rate.
However, if they want to be effective, they must be transformed into the prototype dimension C, so the effect is not very good in the dimension C family, and the effect is slow. In addition, they will turn yellow after oxidation, but it is better than the prototype dimension C.
Representative product
DHC
Whitening and light spot essence
DHC’s essence is added with 8% MAP and sugar isomers to maintain moisturizing performance. The ratio of MAP+ vitamin C inducer can promote skin absorption well. Without additional functional ingredients, it may not be very strong in antioxidation, but fortunately, it is less irritating, watery and refreshing, and it is less sensitive to skin conditions. Oil-skinned baby can also be used.
Radha Beauty
VC essence
This essence contains 20%SAP (which is a relatively high concentration), and some plant extracts are added to improve the overall antioxidant performance of the product. In addition, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E replenish moisture for the skin. Pale yellow egg white texture makes the skin feel refreshing and absorbs quickly. The smell is sweet orange, which A Dai likes very much ~
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Ascorbic acid glucoside (AA2G)
AA2G is based on the prototype vitamin C, added with glucose molecules, and transformed into the prototype vitamin C through hydrolysis of enzymes and α -glucosidase in the skin. It is also a water-soluble VC derivative, but it has higher hydrophilicity and better stability.
AA2G molecular formula
Moreover, it can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, dilute the melanin produced on the skin surface and promote the synthesis of collagen. Not only that, it also has the effect of alleviating sun damage.
Because it needs to be hydrolyzed into the prototype dimension C form to be effective, the conversion rate is particularly important. However, its performance in this respect is somewhat unsatisfactory. In terms of stability, it is still possible to turn yellow for a long time, which is also a fly in the ointment ~
Representative product
Baizhicui
Soothing, repairing red and brightening essence
The advantage of this soothing brightening essence is that it focuses on caring for the discomfort of the skin, and adds multiple ingredients such as Centella asiatica essence and bisabolol to repair and soothe the skin.
Not only that, but also olive extract was added to brighten the skin tone with AA2G. It’s very malleable, two or three drops can be applied to the face without pressure (it can be used for a long time to save money), and the skin feeling is also very refreshing, which is also the essence that oily skin will like!
Clinique
Evenness Zhuo Yan spot-lightening double-effect essence lotion
Clinique’s Essence Dew is an old net red, and now it has come out to the third generation. The content of the new version of AA2G is even higher. From the perspective of composition, the new version pays more attention to the efficacy of whitening spots. It mainly relies on AA2G and resorcinol derivatives for whitening, and with a small amount of salicylic acid, it adopts a gradual whitening method with mild peeling as the main method. Its essence is milky white, with a soft texture and a little silky texture. It is non-oily and non-sticky, and has a good skin feeling. It deserves to be produced by a big factory ~
Second generation vitamin C derivatives
Although the first generation of vitamin C derivatives have made up for many shortcomings of the prototype vitamin C, there are still problems of low stability and absorption, so scientists have further developed the second generation of vitamin C derivatives.
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3-o- ethyl ascorbic acid (ethyl vitamin C)
Compared with other vitamin C derivatives, 3-o- ethyl ascorbic acid is closer to the prototype vitamin C. Its molecular weight is relatively small, and it is hydrophilic and lipophilic, so the absorption rate of skin is relatively high. But also can be better matched with other functional ingredients.
Compared with other vitamin C derivatives, its working efficiency is very high, only less than 3% (the conventional recommended dosage is 1%-2%) is enough, and it has a good performance in brightening skin tone, antioxidation and promoting collagen production.
More importantly, its stability is very good, even under oxygen and light, it will not be moved, and the upper face will not be stained with yellow cuticle, so it is called transparent vitamin C~ With it, skin care with vitamin C can be beautiful during the day ~
Representative product
Zhiben
Multi-functional essence
A Dai feels that this cocktail is the essence of its family’s full-featured cocktail. Ethyl vitamin C takes the lead in brightening skin tone, then covers multiple antioxidant pathways with Lactobacillus, Schizoyeast fermentation product lysate, fullerene, astaxanthin and other ingredients, and finally palmitoyl tripeptide -5 finishes to promote collagen production, which is really a cost-effective choice! It belongs to the gel texture, with the fragrance of roses, which makes it feel cool and cool and absorbs quickly.
Kiehl’s
Essence with whitening balance, brightening and lightening spots.
The main ingredients of Kiehl’s Essence are Bosone and Ethyl Vitamin C, which can brighten the skin tone while taking into account anti-aging. A small amount of adenosine, peony root extract and sweet orange peel extract were added to even skin color to enhance the effect, and salicylic acid was added to accelerate melanin metabolism. Due to the addition of alcohol and acidic ingredients, sensitive muscles are cautious. Its texture is slightly sticky, but its upper face is refreshing and it is absorbed quickly. You can try it if it is not bad ~
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Tetraisopalmitate ascorbate (VC-IP)
VC-IP is special. Most vitamin C derivatives are water-soluble and fat-soluble, which makes it easier to be absorbed by the skin than the original vitamin C and other derivatives.
On the other hand, although it has a large molecular weight, it has a high conversion efficiency into VC. Moreover, the effect is also very strong. Experiments show that some indexes are even better than the prototype vitamin C in antioxidation, melanin inhibition and collagen production.
Not only that, but its stability and adaptability also hang on to the prototype dimension C, which is also released at high temperature for several months. VC-IP means it’s all trivial ~ (it’s really a component of lady dimension C), but although it’s expensive, it has no princess temper, as long as the PH value is less than 6, it can play a good role in any texture ~
If there is anything wrong with it, it can only be that Xiao He has lost and played havoc. Its fat-soluble structure is a double-edged sword, which not only makes it unable to resist oxidation, but also makes it greasy to use.
This is different from the prototype dimension C. The viscosity of the prototype dimension C is caused by high concentration of alcohol, not oil, so the oil skin can also be used. And VC-IP is more suitable for dry skin, or babies who don’t mind its greasy skin feeling ~ (after all, the effect is very exciting)
Representative product
The ordinary
20%VC derivative essence (soluble in VF)
The ordinary is an old bucket of raw materials, and the cheap big bowl is still useful. A Dai recommends this one as the first choice for healthy skin, but I just don’t know why this one is neglected at home.
It adds 20%VC-IP and a small amount of tomato fruit extract, and the effect of brightening skin color is amazing. The deficiency is that the texture is oily, and the dosage needs to be controlled. Oil skin baby doesn’t recommend this one, and the big leather sisters can rest assured ~
Revision Skincare vitamin c anti-oxidation brightening essence
Revision Skincare is more expensive, but the formula is really good, adding 30%VC-IP, which is very generous. Coupled with tocopherol, tocopherol acetate and coenzyme Q10, its antioxidant effect is also very strong.
However, due to the addition of more oil-soluble antioxidants, it may not be suitable for oily baby, and high concentration of VC-IP may also bring more irritation to the skin, so A Dai suggested that sensitive muscle baby should have a good skin test before using it.
Today’s space is really a bit long, and when I read the toilet, I feel a little distressed about the toilet. So A Dai is going to finish the rest of vitamin C derivatives in a couple of days, and then answer all kinds of puzzles of babies about vitamin C, so as to try to analyze vitamin C thoroughly! Baby, if you have any questions about vitamin C, you can also ask them in the comments section ~
References:
[1]Ascorbyl Palmitate as a Carrier of Ascorbate into Neural Tissues， J Biomed Sci。 Mar-Apr 2003； 10（2）：193-8
[2]Machado， N. C. F. et al. “Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics。” Computers in biology and medicine 75 （2016）： 151-159。
[3]Campos， Patrícia MBG Maia， et al。 “Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations： Stability studies and in vivo efficacy。” European journal of pharmaceutics and biopharmaceutics 82.3 （2012）： 580-586。
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