On April 27th, Duan Long appeared on the red carpet of fashion activities. He wore a black velvet suit, a white shirt and a snowflake brooch. He was very mature in overall wearing, but his wolftail curly hair was slightly greasy, his eyes and face were a little swollen, and his forehead wrinkles were obvious. He looked vicissitudes.
Duan Long’s appearance this time is totally different from his previous state, which is worrying.
Special feature of 1905 film network In 2023, the National People’s Congress and the National People’s Congress were successfully held, and the film channel was ingenious in editing and broadcasting. From March 1 to March 20, 2023, every morning, noon and evening in prime time, a number of excellent main melody movies were exhibited and broadcasted for everyone with the three themes of "Great Struggle", "Glorious Course" and "Model of the Times".
Great struggle
Red classic movies in the morning
History cannot be forgotten.As an important position of film creation, revolutionary historical films have always attracted the attention of the audience, and those familiar heroes and revolutionary deeds constantly urged us to be fearless and difficult and move on.
In the snowy plateau, people passed on the story of "General Memba" from mouth to mouth."Menba" means "doctor" in Tibetan. Wherever he walks, the boat of life will go all the way; No matter where he appears, the kindness of the doctor will warm the people there.
He is Li Suzhi, who took root in Tibet for 42 years and saved countless lives, and was regarded as a "living Buddha" by Tibetans.
Taking Li Suzhi as the prototype, this paper tells the touching story of his visiting remote areas for living Buddha monks, Tibetan people and border guards and soldiers for decades.
一条路、一颗心、一生情，印证了他的初心和功绩。
海拔4000米以上的取景，从藏南到藏北，从八廓街到羊八井，从布达拉宫到纳木错，影片不仅为我们展现了秋冬西藏牧民的生活和西藏旖旎风光，更让我们感受到感人肺腑的军民鱼水情。
“虽然我是女儿身，但我不怕部队的艰苦。”数次灼伤、晕倒、与死神擦肩而过的经历都没有让她后悔放弃在城市留校任教的机会，而是选择到偏僻的山沟从事销毁弹药的高危工作。
她便是全军优秀党员、全国三八红旗手、全国妇女创先争优先进个人的女军人刘晶。
在里，刘晶的存在成为了军营中一道美丽的风景，这位坚强刚毅的80后女军人坚守和奉献的身影，让人为之动容。
“不要总想着爬多高，要多想着根扎多深。”他是被习近平总书记赞为“新时期共产党人的楷模、知识分子的优秀代表、太行山上的新愚公”的李保国。
林永健扮演的李保国
电影再现了他35年来在太行山区扎根的印记。
他用科技为荒山带来苍翠，用产业为乡亲拔除“穷根”。在他的带领下，让140万亩荒山披绿，使山区增收35亿元，他的精神更是影响了一代又一代师生，在太行山上走出了一条坚实的道路。
Li Baoguo, a forestry expert on Taihang Mountain in the east, spent his whole life bringing science and technology and prosperity to farmers. In the north, there are countless engineers working hard to build the South-to-North Water Transfer Canal, bringing the water of life to all the people in the north.
"There is a river in the sky and a Tianhe on the ground."filmTianheWith the most unpretentious narration, let us know the history of China’s engineering construction.
National cadres, engineers, young workers … It is these people who struggled in the front line of the South-to-North Water Transfer Project, and with their selfless dedication, they forged the miracle of the 1,276-kilometer vast project.
"Do you know how long it takes for a Haloxylon ammodendron to grow to one person’s height? Seven years! "
According to the simple and touching story of the people in Alashan, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, we can see that Su He and the old man, who are nearly old, are still sticking to their ideals with their beliefs.
Lucid waters and lush mountains are invaluable assets. In 17 years, Alashan people planted 90,000 Haloxylon ammodendron seedlings, grew into 3,500 mu of Haloxylon ammodendron forest, and built a green Great Wall with a width of 500 meters and a length of 3 kilometers, which became a solid ecological barrier to defend us.
Keeping a field and protecting a land is all because of my deep love for this land. Eighteen holes villageThe story of getting rid of poverty and getting rich in the past is just countless similar memories and stories that reflect the common experience of a generation.
The poverty alleviation team members who are fighting in the front line and the poor households who are determined to get rid of poverty constitute a magnificent and warm picture of China’s precise poverty alleviation, telling us what is the spirit of China and the power of China.
Generations of the Communist Party of China (CPC) people, generations of great pioneers and exemplary figures, and generations of ordinary China people have devoted their whole lives to youth and hard work, making contributions to the sustained and steady development of various undertakings in China!
glorious past
The famous series produced by the midday channel.
Over the years, film channels have closely followed the pulse of the times in film creation. At noon, we prepared a series of famous movies produced by the channel for everyone.
From the flashback, the film tells the story of Chen Yi, one of the top ten marshals in People’s Republic of China (PRC), leading the New Fourth Army to establish Maoshan anti-Japanese base area; Taking General Zhang Zhonghan, the commander of the former Corps, as the prototype, the film about the reorganization and adaptation of the Kuomintang uprising troops by the 9th Army of the 22nd Corps of the China People’s Liberation Army after the peaceful liberation of Xinjiang in 1949; There is also a story about the founding general, General Lv Zhengcao, who used wisdom and courage to write a heroic song to save the nation and survive in the plain and insisted on village defense. ……
These films will show a glorious history in the form of light and shadow.
At noon every day, the movie channel takes you to reminisce about the eventful years and remember the revolutionary ancestors.
Model of the times
Prime-time model films
A spirit, a few bright lights; One country, several generations of heroes.The Jizhong Cavalry Corps defending the people, the first generation of astronauts who developed China’s first artificial satellite, and the representative of the innovative wave of shooting and broadcasting the first TV advertisement & HELIP; … Because of them,Me and my parentsThat’s why it’s so wonderful
Their stories represent the spirit of China people’s hard work and hard work in different times and fields.
Focusing on the rare crisis in China’s civil aviation history, truly restoring the deeds of the heroic crew of Sichuan Airlines 3U8633, let us see the crew’s indomitable spirit of overcoming difficulties in times of crisis;
Focusing on the experience of China’s diplomatic history in evacuating overseas Chinese, the film tells the story of China diplomats who used their ordinary bodies to go through a narrow escape, and brought their compatriots home from the war-torn Numia and the rebels, so that we can see what Chinese power is.
There are also many excellent films that use the law to promote justice. The film "The Last Trial" tells the touching story of the people’s judges who are rooted in the grassroots and are about to retire, and insist on "justice for the people and justice" all the way, showing the responsibility and responsibility of the people’s judges in the new era to pursue the facts of the case and carry forward the independence of judges.
In the cause of fighting poverty, on the road of fighting poverty in China, we have a group of young people who focus on the front line of fighting poverty in China and lead the people of Lankao to get rid of poverty.
We also have a group of middle-aged cadres who have gone through hardships and overcome all difficulties in the premiere movie to lead the masses to explore the road to poverty alleviation.
Those eventful years that Qian Qian walked hand in hand, for everyone who struggled to get rid of poverty, wrote a hymn of the times!
Strive for a new era and build a new journey of dreams!Let’s feel the spirit of the times in the new era and take on new actions through movies!
On January 22nd, The Wire, an Indian media, published a heavy and long investigation report, revealing that the ruling party of Indian Prime Minister Modi, the Bharatiya Janata Party, and Internet companies jointly developed and put into use an APP called "Tek Fog" to manipulate public opinion and crack down on political opponents by digital means.
Indian TV reported Tek Fog.
According to the report, in mid-2020, The Wire editorial department found a clue that a former employee of the IT department of the Bharatiya Janata Party broke the news that the Bharatiya Janata Party used this APP called Tek Fog to create momentum for right-wing politics and promote cyber violence. According to the report, through clues, the investigative reporter verified that this program called "Tek Fog" did exist. This mobile APP has many functions. Including the ability to automatically generate virtual phone numbers and email addresses, and then use the same terminal to register, log in and operate many social platform accounts such as Twitter, Facebook and Instagram, and generate a lot of similar information in a short time to achieve the effect of "washing the version" on social platforms.
The report mentioned that this APP has unified deployment and KPI indicators. Grass-roots operators will receive uniform labels at regular intervals-often the hottest political topic. Then they have to generate a copy related to the tag through the APP-support the Bharatiya Janata Party, or attack the opponents of the Bharatiya Janata Party, and then publish the copy, forward and share it on platforms such as Twitter, thus "hijacking" the hot search keywords of these platforms. For example, in the report, on May 4, 2020, the Bharatiya Janata Party launched a publicity campaign against the labor group, claiming that the largest opposition party, the Indian National Congress Party, was "anti-labor" and set a key word-"# Congress Party is anti-labor". This keyword was quickly forwarded by about 1,700 accounts and got more than 50,000 main tweets and retweets.
The survey report also found that the APP "Tek Fog" has a huge database of online users. Among them, the public figures on the Internet in India are divided into many categories-such as journalists, social media experts, religious leaders, movie stars, students … Different people are also labeled with different labels, such as gender, political orientation, religion, language and so on. According to the deployment, the operator can select groups with different labels to send public opinion messages on a large scale-for example, insulting words are put on anti-Modi female journalists in a certain period of time, and inflammatory words are put on certain groups of people in a certain period of time.
After this high-tech "public opinion war" weapon was exposed, the Modi government and its political parties have not commented so far. Many media have expressed great concern. For example, the French newspaper Le Monde called it creating a "toxic media environment"; Pakistan’s Dawn newspaper commented that this "encourages the ideology of hatred"; Bloomberg believes that this is the embodiment of India’s "political war escalation."
All these serve the political goals of the Bharatiya Janata Party: Since winning the election in 2014, Indian Prime Minister Modi and his ruling Bharatiya Janata Party have been committed to pursuing the political agenda of "Hindu nationalism", that is, the "transformation" plan of India, which is a mixture of identity politics and sectarian politics, with the aim of transforming India from a secular country with multiple religions and ethnic groups into a religious country ruled by a "Hindu nation" and pursuing the "dharma rule" of Hinduism.
For this long-sought political goal, the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) government has carried out a series of controversial domestic policies, which has continuously promoted Hindu nationalism at the symbolic and practical levels. For example, in October 2019, Modi’s government abolished the autonomous status given to Indian-controlled Kashmir in the Indian Constitution; In November of the same year, Hindu nationalist groups won the lawsuit surrounding the former site of Babri Mosque in Ayodhya, Uttar Pradesh, and obtained court permission to build the Hindu Rama Temple on the site of the mosque demolished by Hindu militants in 1992. The following year, Modi personally came to lay the foundation stone for the new temple. From the second half of 2019 to the first half of 2020, Modi took advantage of the epidemic to launch the National Identity Act (CAA), which regarded many groups other than Hindus as "non-nationals", which triggered a series of protests, especially in Delhi, which caused ethnic conflicts between Hindus and Muslims who killed many people. In addition, during the Modi government’s administration, all parts of India also ushered in the climax of "social policy" to restrict the slaughter of cattle and the consumption of beef. A large number of Mughal city names have also been changed to "Hindu" names in these years.
In this series of operations, the Indian media ecology under the Bharatiya Janata Party is increasingly beneficial to Modi. In 2015, NDTV, which is famous for its anti-Modi, was rectified for national security and tax reasons; In 2019, the Indian government temporarily stopped buying advertisements in the biggest media-The Times of India, The Hindu and Telegraph, which was interpreted as a way to pressure these media that rely heavily on government advertising to change their reporting tendency.
At the same time, the online propaganda power of Bharatiya Janata Party has been expanding: on the one hand, the right-wing parent organization of Bharatiya Janata Party, the National Volunteer Service Corps (RSS), used its peripheral social organizations such as the All India Student Union (ABVP) and the World Hindu Lent (VHP) to launch propaganda, and besieged social forces opposed to Hindu right-wing politics on the grounds of "anti-state" since Modi came to power. In 2016, in line with the accusation of the Ministry of the Interior on the "incitement crime" of the left-wing students of Nehru University, they launched a network encirclement and suppression of Nida; Over the years, they have been besieging famous non-Hindu Bollywood actors, including Aamir Hussain Khan. The last time was in October 2021, Aamir Hussain Khan was regarded as an "anti-Indian" and was cursed to "go back to Pakistan" for posting a tweet calling for environmental protection and public morality during Hindu Diwali and not to set off fireworks on the road. Although many people in the society ridiculed these cyber violence as the work of Modi’s "Bhakt" (devout believers), there is obviously a special organization and coordination work behind it. The Bharatiya Janata Party even appointed Tajinder Pal Singh Bagga as the spokesman of the Bharatiya Janata Party in Delhi. This gentleman is famous for violently humiliating anti-Indian people in various languages on the Internet. To some extent, the Indian Party gave him a post as a reward for his "public opinion firepower".
On April 3, 2021, in Buer, Saunal, India, Indian Prime Minister Modi held a rally during the parliamentary election campaign in West Bengal, and supporters of the Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) wore Modi’s mask.
The latest investigation report on the "TekFog" app confirms the real existence of these public opinion techniques. It can even be seen that the Bharatiya Janata Party’s public opinion offensive has "evolved" into a more high-tech approach, and it has skillfully cooperated with large enterprises, no longer relying entirely on the rumors of "sea tactics" and "network water army".
In The Wire’s investigation, the reporter found that the operation of this APP was suspected to involve two companies.
One is Persistent Systems, a joint venture between India and the United States. The company advertised that its founder Anand Bundhit had returned to India from Silicon Valley out of patriotism. The company itself has received many overseas investments including Twitter. Its main business is in the United States, with revenue exceeding $500 million per year. Since 2015, this company has won several information engineering bids. For example, in 2018, the Indian Ministry of Health and Family Welfare chose them to develop a personal health data system covering ten states. The Wire’s investigation found through informants that the company’s intranet has "Tek Fog" operating project documents. Although its spokesman said that "Tek Fog" has nothing to do with the company.
Another company is the popular local social platform "ShareChat" in India. This is the largest non-English social media in India at present. It claims to have nearly 200 million potential users in more than 14 languages in second and third tier cities. The Wire survey found that "Tek Fog" system can manipulate a large number of fake accounts on ShareChat and publish a large number of so-called "community content" in Hindi, Marathi and other languages, among which there are a lot of hate speech. Many similar remarks were first published on ShareChat, and then moved to other social platforms. Although ShareChat’s operation team denies its relationship with TekFog, in recent years, its team has repeatedly expressed its willingness to attract political parties to its own platform-bringing traffic and spreading political information.
In addition, the investigation team also found that Tek Fog can "hijack" some deactivated accounts of other social media. For example, its operators will secretly "hijack" accounts by posting videos with Trojans to some WhatsApp (Facebook’s communication software) accounts. After users of these accounts log out or change their mobile phones, they will use this account to post fake news and various public opinion propaganda information to their friends.
What is even more surprising is that in India, a populous country with a large labor reserve, the technology of "Tek Fog" is very intelligent. The investigation team found that the news generation function of artificial intelligence (even with American artificial intelligence news technology such as OpenAI or more advanced CTRL) may be added to the operation of this APP: automatically generate news pages with modified titles and contents that look unusually "real". For example, a news report that "communication software encourages right-wing extremism" can be changed to the title and content of "communication software encourages left-wing terrorism" and then pushed in large quantities. The information receiver who doesn’t pay close attention can’t see that this is fake news at all.
Further investigation by The Wire found that the "Tek Fog" APP and its operation team participated in many language violence incidents on the Internet in recent years. And many of its functions are specially designed for this kind of "cyber bullying". It can push insulting language generated around certain keywords for specific groups-for example, when its operators need to insult female journalists according to the deployment, they will select the tag combination of women and journalists in the list, and then the system will automatically appear words such as "Pakistani guy", "tits" and "randi", which can quickly generate large-scale push of insulting content. For example, according to The Wire reporter’s statistics, in May 2021, of the 4.6 million social media messages targeted at 280 most famous female journalists in India, more than 800,000 (more than 18%) were pushed by Tek Fog. Moreover, this software played an important role in the stigma of "bringing virus into India" against Muslims in 2020 and the ethnic violence in Delhi.
The media’s revelation of Tek Fog may be just the tip of the iceberg, but it makes people see the efficient combination of the right-wing religious nationalism politics of the Bharatiya Janata Party, high-tech enterprises and even the Internet platform. Many functions of Tek Fog are built on the GoogleSheet service provided by Google. The technology platform suspected of supporting its operation accepted the investment from Twitter. In recent years, many reports have pointed out that the Bharatiya Janata Party and the National Volunteer Service Corps are developing their own organizations and teams in India’s electronic technology industry. In IT companies in Bangalore and other places, there are volunteer service groups similar to "fellowship" that regularly carry out activities to combine the daily life of the emerging middle class. With the continuous consolidation of Modi’s government position, Internet companies supported by financial capital have also formed alliances with Modi’s government’s political interests-"Persistant Systems" and "ShareChat" are both such examples-Modi’s government has helped Indian local Internet companies to crack down on foreign competitors and let the former occupy more markets. Local Internet companies help Modi government attract foreign investment into India, and at the same time help Modi’s political party to crack down on opponents and consolidate its ruling position with their own technology.
However, even if media reports point out that such an APP exists, Modi and his political forces can completely ignore it-as long as these public opinions do not hurt their votes, they will not pose a real blow to them. In the Pegasus monitoring software scandal in 2021, Modi’s government was exposed to use the monitoring system of Israeli companies to monitor opposition politicians and social people who were dissatisfied with its governance. At that time, Indian society was in an uproar, but the Modi government did not say much, and this incident did not make Modi’s administration encounter a crisis.
The Wire’s two-year investigation report on Tek Fog also reminds us that in recent years, people regard the extreme right wing or alternative right wing in Europe and America as a serious phenomenon and the most "cutting-edge" political issue. But what people may not realize is that in the former "third world" countries like India, the combination of technology and right-wing politics is actually more radical. In such an environment, once the combination of capital and technology and right-wing politics is not checked and stopped, its social and practical impact may be even more amazing.
No.3388 Cultural Industry Review
The blue word cultural industry reviews above the point pay attention to and star the standard.
China has great etiquette, so it is called summer; The beauty of the service seal is called China. From the color aesthetic orientation of traditional clothing in past dynasties, we can also see the cultural connotation of Chinese nation. The simplicity and naturalness of costumes in the Han dynasty were popular in Xuan, Chi, White and Green. In the Tang dynasty, the costumes were wrongly painted with gold, which was popular in crimson, crimson, bright yellow and turquoise; In Song Dynasty, the costumes were graceful and elegant, and were popular in light red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow. In the Yuan Dynasty, the costumes were golden and colorful, and they were popular in gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and green. Ming Dynasty costumes were luxurious and dignified, popular with scarlet, sapphire blue, grape purple and grass green; In the Qing Dynasty, the costumes were in full bloom, and apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and pale blue were popular. I can’t wait. Come and enjoy the popular colors of costumes in various dynasties with the writing! A big wave of beautiful costume pictures and color palette rushes to you!
author | Laishipu
read and edit | Min Lu (Assistant Research Fellow, Sanchuan Huiwen Tourism Research Institute)
edit | Chen Hongwei
source | Guochao Museum
The text is 6605 words | Estimated reading time is 17 minutes.
Chinese clothes are the epitome of Chinese civilization.
The color of traditional clothing is influenced by the theory of yin-yang and five elements, which can be divided into two parts.Blue, red, black, white and yellowFive colors. Different colors advocated by different dynasties reflect their dynasty characteristics.
The President selected the six most representative dynasties in ancient China:Han, Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, analyzed their popular clothing colors.
Let’s take a look at what these popular colors have with the introduction of the president ~
the Han Dynasty/the Han nationality/Chinese (language)/man
Features: simple and natural
Popular colors: Xuan, Red, White and Green.
In 206 BC, the Han Dynasty was founded.
Influenced by the Taoist technique of Huang Lao advocated in the early Han Dynasty and Confucianism advocated in the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and later, the costumes of the Han Dynasty pursued the "essential beauty" of one integrated mass.
△ Eastern Han mural
The clothing colors in Han Dynasty are mainly monochrome and monochromatic, and they advocate dim colors, which are dignified, simple and natural.
Clothing in the Han Dynasty carries the idea of "rule by courtesy and orthodoxy", and the fabric dyeing follows the belief of Yin and Yang and the five elements, and it is noble in dark color and vulgar in light color.
Fashion colors in this period are dark black, red, green and white with low lightness.
△ Fuxi map in the tomb of Buqianqiu
black
After the Han dynasty destroyed Qin, according to the theory of five elements, it took the meaning that Qin destroyed Zhou and water overcame fire, and advocated water virtue.
Shuide is dark black. In the early Han Dynasty, dark black was the noblest color.
△ Han dynasty straight clothes
In the Book of Changes, the source of China culture, dark black was elevated to the status of "Heaven" and was the mother of all colors.
In Taoist thought, this theory was further developed:
Thousands of worlds originated from "Tao", and "Tao" showed the color of black, so the colorful of thousands of worlds grew out of black.
△ Eastern Han mural
Since the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, considering the five emperors in ancient times, the order of dynasty change was five elements, so the water virtue was changed to fire virtue, and the red color was taken as the top service.
Therefore, red became the most popular color in the Han Dynasty.
Therefore, the dresses of the Han Dynasty showed the characteristics of alternating red and mysterious.
Red also pinned the Han people’s desire for enlightenment and immortality.
The emperors of the Han Dynasty were keen to seek immortality, and imitating immortals with costumes was the most typical form of expression.
Immortal costumes pay equal attention to inflammation and red, and show awe-inspiring and inviolable momentum.
Nobles in the Han Dynasty like to wear red clothes, trying to imitate the charm of immortals.
△ Han dynasty skirt
white
In the Han Dynasty, white was a color that civilians could wear, and it was also the most commonly used color in clothing collocation.
It is natural, unpolished, with the most extreme simplicity and simplicity.
△ Han Xizai’s "Night Banquet Map" Part
White, as the most common popular color in the Han Dynasty, can best represent the ordinary people’s perception and understanding of life in the Han Dynasty.
It not only presents the beauty of the color of the costumes in the Han Dynasty, but also reveals the unique gentleness, gentleness, tolerance and atmosphere of the people in the Han Dynasty.
△ Han Dynasty winding clothes
green
Nearly half of the figures in Han Dynasty murals, both men and women, were dressed in green clothes, which reflected the popularity of green in Han Dynasty.
△ Han Dynasty murals
There is a poem in The Book of Songs, which says, "I am a green girl, and I am in my heart.". "Gnome" is the collar, and "green Gnome" refers to "the man in green clothes", which shows that the green shirt is the representative of a beautiful image in people’s minds.
△ Han Dynasty murals
In the Han Dynasty, the status of green is second only to red and mysterious, and it is also a color available to civilians, so it gradually became the popular color of clothing in the Han Dynasty.
In addition, green has a sense of peace visually, which accords with the charm of "purity" and "inaction" advocated in the study of Huang Lao advocated by Han Dynasty, and also accords with the beauty of "golden mean" in Confucianism.
△ Han Dynasty clothes
Tang Dynasty
Features: wrongly painted gold
Popular colors: crimson, crimson, bright yellow and turquoise.
Tang Dynasty’s clothing style is luxurious and elegant, with bright and bright colors, delicate and complicated patterns, and they like to use bright and contrasting colors to match, which embodies the characteristics of the inclusive and open era in Tang Dynasty.
In the Tang Dynasty, scarlet, bright yellow, crimson purple and turquoise were the most popular clothing colors.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture"
bright red
If the dynasty had color, Datang must be a delicate and charming color with red flowers and green willows.
Crimson is the most popular color in the Tang Dynasty, and it is often matched with the intermediate green, forming a huge contrast.
Women in this era pursue individuality, just as none of us want to bump shirts today.
△ Tang Zhangxuan’s "Mrs. Guo You Chuntu" part
Crimson color appears as the main color in the clothing of the Tang Dynasty, which is charming and dazzling. The warm color reflects the prosperity of the prosperous Tang Dynasty and is unforgettable at first sight.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
dark reddish purple
Purple has always been the exclusive color of the nobility.
It is gorgeous, bright, pleasing to the eye, elegant and unconventional at the same time. It is loved by noble women in the Tang Dynasty and is often used in clothing collocation.
△ Princess Yongtai’s Tomb Mural
In the Tang Dynasty, crimson purple was often used to match with various colors.
In Zhou Fang’s "Picture of a Lady with Flowers", your daughter is dressed in a long red dress and covered with a purple-brown gauze blouse; It was draped in vermilion with a blue and white curly grass pattern. Purple shirt, red skirt and vermilion silk, balanced echo.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
bright yellow
In chromatography, yellow has the highest brightness, which is the color of the sun as the basis of life. It is bright and popular for a while.
In women’s clothing, it is the main color, with red, pink white, dark green, sapphire blue and other colors as harmony, which has the beauty of grandeur and blooming flowers.
△ Zhou Fang’s "Flower Lady’s Picture" Part
Pure and bright yellow is also respected by Buddhism, which is the sacred color of Buddhism. It is believed that it has the power to expel evil and is used by cassock.
In the period of Emperor Gaozong in the Tang Dynasty, it was considered that yellow was similar to the sun, and the sun was the symbol of the emperor. It was forbidden for officials and people to wear yellow, and ochre was designated as the special color for the emperor’s uniform.
dark green
Turquoise, as a popular color in clothing collocation in the Tang Dynasty, is often matched with scarlet, vermilion and white, and the colors contrast with each other and complement each other.
Turquoise, with its unique bright and fresh color expression, shows the vitality and vigor of the Tang Dynasty.
△ Tang Zhangxuan (biography) "Dao Lian Tu" (Song copy)
This three-color female figurine of Tang Dynasty, whose dress is mainly blue, green and yellow, is bright and natural in overall color.
△ Tang Sancai glazed pottery female figurines
the Song Dynasty; a surname
Features: graceful and elegant
Popular colors: light red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow.
The color characteristics of costumes in the Song Dynasty are simple and elegant, emphasizing the true colors and taking elegance as the priority.
The colors are on the high side, the purity is low, the application of contrast color is less, the colors are not as bright as before, and the color collocation is very harmonious.
Pale red, pearl white, light blue and light yellow are the favorite colors of Song people.
light red
In Song Dynasty, the concept of "keeping justice and eliminating human desires" was emphasized, which suppressed human personality and restricted the color of clothing to the extreme.
In Song Dynasty, the colors of costumes were formal and conservative, and the colors were elegant and quiet. Even when using the most gorgeous red, they often used light red.
Ouyang Jiong once described a woman wearing a pomegranate skirt in He Ming Dynasty, which shows the graceful beauty: recalling the first meeting between flowers, the tea is half covered, and the makeup face is lightly turned. Pomegranate nepotism, so the delicate jade fingers are secretly twisted, double phoenix gold thread.
Song people don’t pursue the colorful flowers in the Tang Dynasty, but like to pursue changes in the same color system, and they prefer the elegance of white.
Besides pure white, I also like moon white, blue white, pearl white and pink white.
As Ge Zhaoguang said: "The Zhao and Song Dynasties are like the moonlight that can’t reach the full moon on the eighth day of the seventh day."
White is pure and moist, like moonlight and Song Dynasty.
Song people pay attention to "inner saints" in their costumes, and see their thoughts in details.
Song Renzong often wears a white round neck robe when he is in court. But it is not pure white, and it uses the color of silk thread to weave different patterns, making white rich in layers.
People often use "rubbing blue shirts and apricot skirts" to describe the temperament of Ya Song.
At the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20th century, Margaret Lide of Britain also called China "a country wearing blue robes", which reminded people of the sentence in the Book of Songs that "blue will be adopted in the end".
These four words are so peaceful and simple, but they are flying like a clean and blue dream.
Light blue was very popular in the Song Dynasty, and it was the closest to a modest gentleman like jade. The natural beauty of simplicity, gentleness and idleness was rich and radiant.
Praise simplicity and elegance, and follow the path of all things.
△ "Song Renzong’s Back Sitting"
Song Taizu and Zhao Kuangyin planned the mutiny in Chen Qiao, added a yellow robe and founded the Northern Song Dynasty.
"Yellow robe" or "yellow dress" is regarded as a symbol of the emperor’s power, and the history and service records of Song Dynasty stipulate that ochre yellow and light yellow are the emperor’s special clothing colors.
Light yellow is used in women’s clothing, which naturally brings a little pride and beauty of a good family.
In Li Qingzhao’s ci, girls who "stop swinging and adjust their delicate hands carelessly", "see guests coming in, socks slip away" and "lean back against the door and smell their plums" should wear such a light yellow dress.
Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368)
Features: Gold and color are in harmony.
Popular colors: gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and emerald green.
The Yuan Dynasty is the most special era in ancient Chinese costumes, because it was a political power established by nomadic people in the northern grassland.
In the use of color, the Yuan Dynasty advocated nature aesthetically, and the popular colors were mainly gold, Mongolian blue, grayish brown and emerald green.
In the 13th century, Genghis Khan led Mongolian fighters and swept Europe and Asia with thunderous momentum.
Mongolian plateau gathers jewelry from all directions, gathers talents from all directions, and collects Chinese and foreign technology. Mongolian costumes have begun a new era of luxury and richness.
"Old clothes are inlaid with precious stones and pierced with gold ornaments" (The History of World Conquerors: Feini Zhi), which is characterized by elegance and jewels.
△ Yuanzu hunting map
In the Yuan Dynasty, the dignitaries loved weaving brocade and advocated using gold in their clothes to show their wealth and status.
The north is cold and short of water, and the surrounding colors are monotonous. Only the golden color like the sun’s rays brings a glimmer of life to people living in the local area.
△ Nashi braided robe in the period of ilhan State
Blue, called "Huhe" in Mongolian, is the color representing the Mongolians.
In the minds of Mongolians, blue symbolizes eternity, faithfulness and loyalty.
Early Mongolians liked blue and white, which is why blue-and-white blue-and-white porcelain flourished in the Yuan Dynasty.
△ Yuan Yan weaves the mandala after the Emperor.
In the primitive beliefs of Mongolians, they worship nature and the blue sky.
They believe that blue represents natural scenery, mountains and rivers, and symbolizes prosperity, beauty and verve.
Dark blue is the main color of men’s Mongolian robes.
Light blue and light blue Mongolian robes will also become the first choice for women in summer.
The Yuan Dynasty was a political power established by nomadic people, and animal fur was often used in costumes, so the colors were mostly gray taupe.
In addition, due to the strict grade requirements for clothing colors in the Yuan Dynasty, people are forbidden to wear bright colors such as brown yellow, willow green, red and white flashing colors, cockscomb purple, gardenia red and carmine.
Forced to be helpless, the color of folk costumes can only develop to taupe. Common colors are silver brown, tea brown, lilac brown and so on.
Green is a very special color. It is neither cool nor warm, and it belongs to the middle color.
As a nomadic people, Mongolians live by water and grass, advocating nature and respecting grasslands. As the main color of grassland, green has a special position in the minds of Mongolian people.
Therefore, green often appears as the main color of Mongolian robes.
In a place with four distinct seasons, seeing green is like seeing a rich grassland, giving people a sense of security, calmness and comfort.
Green environment means plenty of food and water, so the love for green has always been in the blood of Mongolian people.
bright
Features: luxurious and dignified
Popular colors: red, sapphire blue, grape purple, grass green.
In the Ming Dynasty, the Confucian moral thought of "propriety, music, benevolence and righteousness" was advocated, and the five colors were combined with "benevolence, virtue and goodness" and set as positive colors, which was a symbol of inferiority and rank.
Red, sapphire blue, grape purple and grass green are the most popular colors in Ming Dynasty.
△ Drawing a police map in the Ming Dynasty (partially) originated from "A General History of Clothing in China"
Clothing in Ming Dynasty inherited from Zhou and Han Dynasties and inherited from Tang and Song Dynasties. It has distinctive Chinese cultural characteristics and is a model of Chinese clothing, which has a wide and far-reaching influence on the clothing and aesthetics of later generations and neighboring countries.
The overall characteristics of Ming dynasty costumes are: paying attention to color matching, luxurious and dignified style, and strong sense of color layering.
In the Ming dynasty, fire was the king of the world, and the color was still red. As a positive color, red had a lofty position.
Red is a warm, impulsive and powerful color with the lowest frequency, longer wavelength and good diffraction ability in the visible spectrum.
△ Ming Dynasty big red dark flower yarn embroidered Yunhe square robe
In the visual sense, red has a strong spatial penetration ability, which is more eye-catching, and its color is like blood, which will form a visual sense of approaching.
The widespread use of red in the royal family shows the supremacy of the feudal ruling class.
△ Ming Dynasty big red makeup yarn cloud shoulder sleeve flying fish pattern gown (partial)
In the Ming Dynasty, the colors of the royal and noble costumes were bright and luxurious, mainly with high saturation colors such as big red, gold, yellow and crow green.
Since the Ming Dynasty, big red, as a symbol of life, enthusiasm, nobility and celebration, also known as China Red, has really penetrated into the context of Chinese culture.
△ Ming Xie Huan "Apricot Garden Elegant Collection"
In the middle and late Ming Dynasty, the power of the ruling class was constantly weakened, people’s thoughts were gradually liberated, dyeing technology and dyes were developed unprecedentedly, and the colors of clothing were more gorgeous and bright, and there was a constant violation of color.
People began to use high-purity bright colors, among which blue with high saturation was particularly popular.
△ Ming Dynasty blue peony, miscellaneous treasure pattern, dark flower, silk weaving, gold makeup, Kirin filling women’s coat
In Chou Ying’s painting "The Map of Southern Metropolis" in the Ming Dynasty, scarlet and sapphire blue are the most conspicuous, and they set off each other and complement each other.
This painting also embodies the characteristics of colorful costumes in the middle and late Ming Dynasty.
△ Ming Chou Ying’s "Nandu Fanhui Volume"
The colors of folk costumes are mainly plain and elegant, and the colors commonly used by civilians are purple, green and light pink.
Purple is a combination of the coldest and warmest colors, which has a neutralization effect in clothing collocation. Therefore, purple is often the main color in civilian clothing, among which grape purple is the most popular.
In "A Beautiful Picture of a Thousand Years", the depiction of women’s clothing boldly adopts grape purple, lake green and other colors.
The strong color contrast highlights the strong "female consciousness" and the desire to break through the tradition and express themselves.
△ Ming Anonymous "The Beautiful Picture of a Thousand Years"
Green is a common color for civilians in all dynasties. With the development of spinning and dyeing technology, the saturation and brightness of green in Ming Dynasty costumes are higher, which makes them look fresh and bright.
In the Ming dynasty, dignitaries also liked to use cyan, green, red, black and gold as the main auxiliary colors.
Green with high saturation, as a popular color in Ming Dynasty, can best reflect the working people’s love for life and tenacious vitality in this period.
△ "Entering the Map" (partially) originated from "General History of China Clothing"
clean
Features: A hundred flowers blossom.
Popular colors: apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and pale blue.
The Qing Dynasty is an era with the greatest change in the history of Chinese clothing.
On the basis of retaining the traditional elements of the national costume, the costumes of the Qing Dynasty absorbed the elements of the Han nationality, forming a unique costume culture in the Qing Dynasty.
The popular colors of clothing in Qing Dynasty are apricot yellow, vermilion, azure and cyan.
In Chinese traditional culture, yellow, as a neutral color, is the first in Baise.
In Qing Dynasty, yellow was regarded as the sunshine color, which was bright and warm, and it was also considered as the golden color, which was both rare and precious.
△ During the Kangxi period, bright yellow satin embroidered colorful clouds, golden dragon mink inlaid with dragon skin and men’s robes.
Except bright yellow for emperors and queens, other yellows were widely used in Qing dynasty costumes.
△ During the Jiaqing period, a bright yellow gauze embroidered with colorful clouds, bats, gold dragons and women’s robes were placed in the court.
Different shades of yellow, or dignified, or delicate, or expensive, or lovely, are the warmest and brightest colors in Qing Dynasty costumes.
In the Qing dynasty, from the royal family to the common people, they all liked red and blue clothes the most.
True red is exclusive to emperors and queens, and other red colors are commonly used in clothing.
△ During the Jiaqing period, the red satin embroidered colorful clouds and the golden dragon pattern dyed the silver mouse leather-trimmed man with a robe.
In the costume culture of the Qing Dynasty, red represents happiness, solemnity, auspiciousness and happiness, and is also a symbol of identity.
△ During the Kangxi period, the red brocade was connected with the stone blue inch python, and the satin was clipped to the skirt.
Girls in the Qing Dynasty are happy in red.
Young women’s clothes are mostly pink and silvery red, while older women are happy with vermilion and scarlet.
Cyan is one of the important colors of Qing Dynasty costumes, which is between blue and green, and has the characteristics of crispness and cleverness.
The common color of civilian women’s clothing is cyan, and the color tone varies with age and occasion.
Blue symbolizes solemnity, strength and hope.
Traditional cyan has a unique artistic charm, which includes pink cyan, holly, bean cyan, azure and so on. These colors are widely used in Qing Dynasty costumes.
In the world of color aesthetics in Qing dynasty, blue is especially simple and elegant.
Among the blues, the lighter blue is called stealing basket, the heavier blue is called prison, the heavier blue is cyan, and the deepest blue is ultramarine.
△ During the Qianlong period, sapphire blue satin embroidered colorful clouds and golden dragon pattern men wore robes.
"Stealing baskets" comes from the color of the autumn sky.
This color, neither strong nor light, is like a girl’s grief, and it is a common color in young women’s clothing.
China was called Huaxia in ancient times, and it was named after its gorgeous clothes.
Looking at the leopard in the tube, we can also see the clothing aesthetics of each dynasty from it.
Natural, gorgeous, elegant, and elegant ….. all have their own charms.
Clothing culture is like a rhythmic life. By understanding its beating, we can grasp the pulse of the times.
The costume color of the Chinese nation, like Chinese and Chinese characters, has always flowed in the blood of the Chinese people and become a part of the cultural genes of the Chinese nation.
References:
[1] Yuan Xun. China clothing history [M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2005.
[2] Chen Qichang. The origin of color and color concept in ancient Chinese clothing [J]. Xi ‘an: Journal of Northwest Textile Institute of Technology, 2000. History Room of People’s Education Press. China Ancient History [M]. Beijing: People’s Education Press, 2003.
[3] Li Miaoling. China costumes of the past dynasties [M]. Taipei: Bailing Press, 1984.
[4] Huang Nengfu. General History of China Clothing [M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2007.
[5] Zhang Yuqi. Looking at China’s ancient color aesthetics from the philosophy of Yin-Yang and Five Elements [J]. Hangzhou: Art and Technology, 2014.
[6] Song Ge. On the changes of costume colors in Han Dynasty and their causes from archaeological data [J]. Cultural Relics of Central Plains, 2021(05):119-123.
[7] Xu Rui, Ma Danhua. Archaeological observation of costume color in Han Dynasty [J]. Journal of Henan University of Science and Technology, 2011.
[8] Chen Qingju. Looking at Tang Dynasty costume color design concept from figure painting [J]. Art Grand View, 2011(09):54-55.
[9] Cui Pixin. Analysis of clothing color and color concept in Tang Dynasty [J]. Liaoning Silk, 2006(02):33-34.
[10] Hua Wen. From the "Yu Fu Zhi" to see the Song Dynasty clothing color [J]. Popular literature and art, 2018(20):232-233.
[11] Su Wenhao. "Taboos and Breakthroughs"-Interpretation of Clothing Color Culture in Ming Dynasty [J]. Popular Colors, 2020(10):23-26.
[12] Su Ye. Research and Analysis of Clothing Color in Yuan Dynasty Based on Natural Color System [J]. Educational Modernization, 2019.